As mentioned previously, I have been training like crazy for Vietnam. I have my usual go-to routes that I do all the time, but it is good to try to mix it up now and again. I had been hoping for a good weather window to do the Heaphy Track but that hasn’t happened…yet. It’s been a wet winter 😦

One of the other routes I have been wanting to do is the ride out to French Pass in Marlborough Sounds area, just to the Northwest of Nelson. The last time I had been out that way was in 1986 when I was doing field work for my Master’s degree. Hiram, another geologist at University of Otago, met me in Nelson and we arranged to go and stay out on D’Urville Island on one of the sheep stations there. It was really amazing. As remote as it is it today, there really was nothing out there in 1986. One of the families that had a station right near French Pass put me up for a couple of days as well. I was blown away by how beautiful it was out there. Anyway, I really wanted to get back out that way after all these years.

One thing about that area is that the wind can be quite ferocious; it sits in the sandwich between the North and South Islands which makes it quite the wind tunnel.

The winds had been really high for quite a while and I didn’t see any windows of opportunity until a few days ago when suddenly there was going to be a lull on Friday with light winds and partly cloudy skies.

I told Susanne that I was going to go ride that road and asked if she wanted to go along and see the scenery. She smartly sorted out that: to do it in one day was going to make for a very long day. Negatory. She suggested I go out Thursday and stay the night Ōkiwi Bay so I could have the whole day to do the ride. Good thinking.

This was going to be a perfect training ride for Vietnam as it simulated one of the harder days in terms of distance and elevation. Further, it gave me a chance to see what it was like to carry my fancy new OM5 travel camera. I had been stressing about the whole camera system I was going to take to Vietnam because, as much as I love my Canon, it weighs a freakin’ ton. After having lugged it around the mountains of New Zealand all summer, the thought of having it on my back for the entire ride from Hanoi to Luang Prabang was intolerable. I did a bunch of research and it was clear that the OM5 was the travel camera of choice for many. Thus I got it (thanks to Susanne’s prodding). Camera box ticked.

I packed up a bunch of stuff and drove out to Ōkiwi Bay. I had time to kill, so I decided I would drive the road and take some photos and double check to make sure I wasn’t about to endeavor on a super crazy sufferfest the following morning. It wasn’t too bad, but the wind was howling. I really hoped that Windy was right and the weather was going to settle down.

I drove back to the Holiday Park and went for a walk around the mostly deserted “town.” I was testing out the new camera to learn how to use the thing so I’d be ready for Vietnam. Overall it was going ok with only a few “wtfs.” There was a wee stroll where people had put all sorts of stuff on the trail from trolls, to fairies, to dream catcher sculptures, to mushrooms. It was a nice distraction for the late afternoon.

It was me and one other couple from Western Australia at the Holiday Park that night. They were on a 5-week tour around the New Zealand and had just come over from the North Island. I told them I was riding my bike out to French Pass and back and they were sure I was crazy … I have to confess, there is some mounting evidence that might support this theory. But I was undeterred.

It was pretty cold when I started out, so I was glad I had some flexibility to wait an extra half hour to let it get a bit warmer. I was glad that Susanne had put the idea of staying there the night before in my head; it made the logistics far more relaxed.

I’ve always been the kind of rider that needs a pretty solid warm-up before my engine really gets going. This ride did not provide that. It is straight into the first big climb with only about 400 meters of warm up. That initial feeling of the steep grade is always challenging and puts doubts in your head about the sanity of the endeavor, but I pushed on. It was steep, but not unmanageable. It took me about 45 minutes to reach the summit and I was feeling pretty good.

The views opened up over the top of the summit and you could see the beautiful water and D’Urville Island off in the distance. The road was super fun with some great corners and amazing views. There was a lot of construction work along the way as it had been pummeled by a huge storm 3 years ago and they were just now getting it back in shape.

I was making pretty good time even though I wasn’t pushing too hard, plus I kept stopping to take pics along the way. I passed the turn-off to Elaine Bay and thought if I had time and felt good, I might drop down and check it out on the way back. The road was paved for about another 5 km past Elaine Bay and then the gravel section started.

The road went through a series of ups and downs, but eventually climbed up and out of the trees and over a hill to where you could see D’Urville Island. It was stunning. I stopped, ate a bit of food and just marveled at the beauty. It was a bit windy, but not too bad. I am sure that on some days you would literally get blown off the hill.

There were a few cars, but not many. I am sure at peak holiday season it might be a bit annoying with cars and dust and all, but I was pretty much out there on my own. It was a an easy descent down to French Pass; the only thing that kept slowing me down were the views and having to stop and take some pictures. The setup of having the camera in my backpack was working pretty well. The only downside was having to take my gloves on and off all the time.

It took me a little over 2 hours to get to French Pass or more accurately Te Aumiti. There is a narrow channel that separates the mainland from D’Urville Island that is about 400 meters wide. The currents that rip through that channel are amazingly strong and have been know to take down boats. You have to remember that we get 10 foot tides in this area, so just imagine trying to force 10 feet of water through this tiny little passage. Not a place to kayak.

There is not a whole lot at French Pass. A pier, a boat launch, a DOC campsite, and a few holiday homes you can rent. It is the gateway to D’Urville Island as there is a barge that will shuttle you back and forth. It’s even big enough for a camper van. Evidently there is great riding on the island so I will have to do that next time.

I ate some lunch and hung out for a bit enjoying the sunshine and view before heading back up the big climb. I was feeling good and now that my diesel engine was all warmed up, the 8% grade didn’t feel quite so bad.

The road has a reputation for being pretty gnarly, but I didn’t think it was that bad. I guess I’ve been driving around the back roads of New Zealand for a while now so I’m getting used to it. And the views … to die for.

I don’t watch that many sports anymore, although I do like a good All Blacks game. I don’t watch Cricket because it completely befuddles me and the 4 1/2 hours of ads included in an American Football game have me preferring to clear gorse … and that is saying something. That said, I love watching bike racing. Why? Who knows. I even watch the full 4-hour segments where most of the time the dudes are just cruising along in a pack … granted, very quickly. Anyway, I do enjoy it. The Giro was amazing. The Tour was pretty good this year even though Pogaçar was so obviously the best. The Vuelta was just ok. It was a bummer at the Vuelta because there were a lot of protests against the war in Gaza at a number of the stages that impacted the racing. I get the reasons and support everyone’s right to protest, but it really disrupted the flow of the race.

Well, I had the same thing happen to me! As I was settling into my rhythm up the climb and feeling good about my good fortune on the day a bunch of protestors showed up and were blocking the road. I am not quite sure what they were all worked up about, but they seemed pretty set on making a point. I finally worked my way through them with a big chorus of what sounded like “boos” but was probably “Baahs” as I went by. Thankfully, they were very non-violent protesters.

I made it to the summit and decided to pick up the pace and just boogie on back to Ōkiwi Bay. I didn’t want to get home too late and miss happy hour. Priorities, man! There was still a lot of up and down on the way back, but at least the ride ended in a pretty big downhill. It was a technical and fast descent so I took it easy, but it did highlight why the climb was hard when I started the day.

I made it back to the Ute after about 5 1/4 hours on the road. Considering how many times I stopped to take pictures, that wasn’t too bad. I ate a little food and headed out for the 1 and 40 minute drive back.

It was one of the better bike rides I have ever done. Maybe because it is fresh in my mind, but I don’t think I could ever imagine it not being amazing. I had a great mindset the whole time and it really made me feel great about my physical condition for my upcoming trip.

I was glad that the weather was so good and the wind abated for a time.